I’ve just arrived back in London from a mini-holiday in Budapest with The Brit, Lulu and The Stepfather. And despite the uncharacteristically wonderful weather in the UK the week prior, I’d been battling a cold all week long, staving it off with dosages of vitamin C and zinc that could likely kill a small hippo. But the flight to Hungary just pushed me and my virally ravaged mucous membranes over the edge. And suddenly, there I was, in Hungary, stuffed up and half def…surrounded by paprika’d salami and paprika’d goulash and paprika’d paprika and with only half my taste buds firing! Oh, the injustice!
Furthermore, there were two unfortunate realizations I came to when we arrived at our four-star hotel on the Buda side of the city in the Castle District. One of them being that the room The Brit and I were to share had two single twin beds rather than the requested double bed (apparently the Hungarians are a lot more like the Cleavers than I initially thought1) and the other being that I’d forgotten the small bag with my comfortable, sensible, sporty red Puma sneakers in the guest bedroom in Walton (which is, decidedly, NOT in Budapest). Instead, I had brought with me the bag with the slightly less than sensible high heels, which, I quickly discovered, were perfect for getting stuck in between the cobbles and the stones of the cobblestoned streets. Repeatedly.
In an effort to make the most of the day, we all went for a walk about the Castle District. Me in my highly impractical shoes and everyone else in their sensible “trainers.” And, just as we’d arrived at the Fisherman’s Bastion (after climbing many many steps) and were standing, overlooking the Danube, the first of many more raindrops began to fall. It seemed that things, as the Brits are keen to saying in situations like these, were beginning to go pear shaped. (Or, alternatively, and more up my alley, things were beginning to go tits up.) We ducked into a small café for some cover, a round of salami sandwiches, and warm apple strudel. And over some post-strudel coffee it was decided that we’d take advantage of the bad weather and go to a Hungarian bath house.
This proved to be a great decision.
We went to the Gellert baths and the place was absolutely stunning. The cathedral ceilings and the ornate, colorful tiling, the fountains and statues and gargoyles spewing water, the disorienting maze of steam rooms and massage rooms and rooms with successively hotter thermal pools (the hottest of which was 38˚ C)…it was all so unlike anything I’d ever seen before. The four of us tried out all the different temperature pools (well, truthfully, only The Brit was lunatic enough to dip into the 8˚ C pool to cool off after the steam room) and we all settled into the 36˚ C pool in the end. And let me tell you, nothing clears the sinuses like a hot bath with a bunch of near-naked Hungarians! Nagyszerű!2
Things thereafter began to look less like a pear and more like a pear strudel. (They make strudel out of everything over there.3) The weather improved and a twin bed turned out to be good for cuddling.
We all thoroughly enjoyed our three day weekend in Hungary. There was much quality time spent with Lulu and The Stepdad…over meals dominated by portion sizes of meat that seemed excessive and yet so very delicious…over long walks throughout the city and its monuments…over local beers at points overlooking the Danube river at sunset or at points along the bank of the Danube at Tea Time (which, for the purposes of this trip, were converted to Beer Time)…over the ferry ride to the nearby town of Szentendre…over shopping amongst the many stores chock-full of paprika and locally-made marzipan and local Hungarian wine and let’s not forget all of the embroidered niceties!
This segues nicely into the point I want to make about embroidered things. There’s something strangely enticing about them…almost like milkshakes that have a trace of crack in them to keep you coming back for more. Hungarians embroider absolutely everything…tops, jackets, purses, pillow covers, hankies, napkins, table cloths, doilies, underwear (presumably). Now. I’m not normally an embroidered, frilly hanky kinda gal. I’m more a take-this- ripped-off-end-of-this-here-partially-used-paper-towel-to-weep-your-eyes-out-with type. But something came over me as I stepped into shop after shop of folky, brightly colored embroidered items of a largely decorative and therefore, largely unnecessary, nature: I became obsessed with purchasing embroidered things. And I didn’t just want one thing. I wanted lots of them. Somehow one thing just wouldn’t look right if not surrounded by other things that were equally embellished. It was obscene, my insatiable hunger for Hungarian needlework. And luckily for me, my ability to purchase anything that I would have regretted was crippled only by the paralyzing indecision I experienced when trying to decide between the yellow embroidered doily or the red…the blue embroidered tablecloth or the white…the red embroidered pillowcase or the other red embroidered pillowcase. Seriously, I’m convinced those Hungarians put CRACK in their embroidery. I got out of there alive and only having purchased a couple of embroidered cloth bread baskets in the end but it was a close call!
And aside from a small incident involving the aforementioned highly impractical footwear, the aforementioned cobblestone streets, and a twisting of the ankle resulting in a rather dramatic and public fall, I’d say the weekend was a grand success! I knew, in fact, that things had gone well enough, when, as I lay there in the moments following my graceless union with the pavement, wincing and gasping in pain, it wasn’t my life that flashed before me but the thought that I hadn’t yet purchased all of the folky embroidered doilies that I absolutely needed. MUST! HAVE! DOILIES! STAT!!
Thank goodness the shops were closed and we had an early flight out the next morning!
1. Thusly, they lost a bit of my respect and about two of their stars in one fell swoop.
2. This means “Great!” in Hungarian but don’t ask me how to pronounce it properly!
3. Mind you, not once did I complain about this.